Announced last weekend in Morocco with immediate effect, the ban on nail polishes and semi-permanent gels containing TPO coincides with a similar measure that took effect on September 1, 2025, across the European Union. For several months, health authorities have been closely scrutinizing this chemical substance because of its toxic properties. Last weekend, the Moroccan Agency for Medicines and Health Products (AMMPS) announced a ban on cosmetic products containing diphenyl trimethylbenzoyl phosphine oxide (TPO), a substance commonly found in nail polishes and semi-permanent gels. The measure, effective immediately, applies to the marketing, manufacturing, import, distribution, and use of these products in Morocco. The announcement follows the entry into force of a European Union directive on September 1, 2025. Until now, TPO was permitted in professional formulas in the EU at concentrations of up to 5%, where it served as a photo-initiator to harden nail polish under UV or LED lamps. However, it has been classified as a category B1 «reproductive toxicant» (CMR) and included in the European Omnibus VII regulation, published in the EU's Official Journal in May 2025, which bans cosmetic ingredients deemed carcinogenic, mutagenic, or toxic for reproduction. As early as 2023, the French National Academy of Medicine had warned of the risks linked to UV/LED lamps used with TPO-based gels and polishes, pointing to accelerated skin aging, irritation, and increased risks of skin cancer. Additionally, sanding and acetone removal prior to application weaken the nail, compounding the harmful effects of repeated or prolonged use. «A public health measure» in Morocco The AMMPS explained it based its decision on «a thorough evaluation of scientific data» and international standards that confirmed TPO's toxicological risks. The medical community in Morocco has largely welcomed the move. Dermatologist and nail surgery specialist Dr. Hafssa Chehab called it a «public health measure», highlighting that it «relies on scientific data showing the potential toxicity of this compound». Speaking to Yabiladi, Dr. Chehab emphasized that health professionals had already been alerted. «We strive to inform patients of the risks associated with non-compliant products, and this regulation is a step forward in better protecting consumers' health», she explained. Referring to recent studies, she noted: «After applying polish containing this substance, the level of the degraded product in urine increased nearly sevenfold compared to normal, 10 to 15 hours after application. This confirms significant exposure through the skin and that the components — TPO and TPHP — can penetrate and circulate systemically among regular users or nail salon professionals». Real risks for users In Morocco, Dr. Chehab has seen firsthand the dangers of TPO among her patients who regularly use semi-permanent polishes. «The most common cases are contact dermatitis, redness, itching, eczema around the nail», she said. «We also see significant weakening of the nail plate, which can lead to partial or total detachment of the nail». According to her, «these complications often occur with repeated applications, especially if patients keep their polish on for weeks. Generally, we recommend four days with polish and three days without, to allow the nail to recover in open air». Necessary follow-up in case of symptoms Dr. Chehab stressed that «the first step is to immediately stop using the polish» at the first sign of damage. Treatment depends on the severity of the symptoms. «Mild skin reactions are treated locally with soothing creams or cortisone. But more severe damage, such as nail loss or detachment leading to secondary infections, requires more prolonged follow-up», she explained. «In such cases, antifungals or antibiotics may be needed, and recovery can take months. For detached fingernails, regrowth can take about six months, while toenails can take up to two years», she added. With the TPO ban now in effect, doctors continue to raise awareness while professionals and manufacturers are required to withdraw stocks and stop distributing, selling, or using these products. Alternatives already exist, including bio-based polishes and plant-derived formulations, which can replace petrochemical derivatives. Article modified on : 02/09/2025 16h35
