As the sacred month of Ramadan commences, Moroccan households are filled with the aroma of harira, a beloved soup that has become synonymous with breaking the fast. This rich and hearty dish, steeped in history and tradition, varies across regions and families, yet remains a cornerstone of Morocco's culinary heritage. The origins of harira, an essential dish during the month of Ramadan. /Ph. DR ‹ › As the sacred month of Ramadan begins, a tantalizing aroma of fresh coriander and tomatoes wafts through Moroccan homes just before sunset. This marks the beginning of a cherished tradition. A staple on the Moroccan Ramadan table is the renowned harira, a robust soup made from tomatoes, meat, and legumes. Over centuries, harira has become the quintessential dish for breaking the fast. Often served with a squeeze of lemon, the recipe for this comforting soup varies from household to household, yet it remains a deeply ingrained part of Morocco's culinary heritage. Ingredients of a harira. /Ph. DRIngredients of a harira. /Ph. DR The secrets of harira are passed down through generations, from mother to daughter, with no single definitive recipe. Each family adds its own twist, choosing spices and ingredients to suit their tastes. However, the core preparation method and basic ingredients remain constant. As Abdelhaï Diouri, a researcher at the University Institute of Scientific Research in Rabat, explains, «Cooking harira involves two stages: 1. tqata', which is the broth with diced meat; 2. tadwira, literally 'the action of turning,' where flour is slowly incorporated into the pot to ensure a smooth mixture without lumps.» In his thesis, supervised by Roland Barthes, Diouri delves into Moroccan eating habits during Ramadan. His study, titled «Symbolic and Sacred: The Risen Dishes of Ramadan in Morocco,» explores the mysteries of harira, among other dishes. Etymologically, Diouri notes that the root of the word harira, «h.r.r», signifies heat, with other meanings including thirst, spice, and even freedom. Andalusian and Muslim Origins... In a conversation with Yabiladi, Diouri shares that he «closely examined this topic in the past,» noting in his article that «harira is likely the one Moroccan dish for which no two regions, families, or individuals have the same recipe. It will always be recognized as harira, but it will never taste the same.» Before becoming a Moroccan staple, harira's roots trace back through history. Diouri highlights that tadwira is likely the fundamental element of harira, stating, «all of harïra is in the tadwira; without tadwira, it is not harira.» This analysis points to the soup's origins, which may have initially been prepared without tqata' due to a scarcity of meat. Even today, some Moroccan regions prepare harira solely with tadwira, similar to hsouwa and belboula. Diouri questions whether these variations are due to nutritional needs during fasting or merely a culinary evolution from Andalusian influences. Diouri's research suggests that a 'soup' with 'seven ingredients' was part of the culinary knowledge of the Sassanid and later the Abbasid courts. Medieval culinary literature already featured harira recipes, with texts like the Kitab al-tahïkh from Baghdad offering meat and flour dishes. Similarly, the Fadalat al-khiwan by Ibn Razine provided the Muslim West with numerous soup recipes, known as haswa. Some believe harira has Andalusian origins, becoming popular in Oran after chorba, introduced to Algeria by Andalusian sailors in 902. Influenced by the Moriscos of Cordoba, it was known as harira qarsa due to its lemon-induced acidity. Others argue for a Berber origin, with Quranic scholars Ahmed Ibn Hanbal and Mohamed el Bukhari mentioning a seven-ingredient soup called harira as part of pre-Hegira Arab agricultural diets. Algerian chorba. /Ph. DRAlgerian chorba. /Ph. DR ... to Moroccan Ramadan Tables Diouri's study further reveals that an anonymous Marrakech manuscript describes three gachicha recipes, one closely resembling modern harira, prepared in two stages but using chicken. The text suggests that the true harira, known as bufertuna in Fès and Rabat, holds a special place. The secret of bufertuna lies in the preparation of the flour coulis, traditionally made with leaven from the previous day's bread dough, symbolizing «good fortune.» This term is a simplification of the Spanish «buena fortuna,» expressing luck. Diouri notes that outside Ramadan, harira is served on significant occasions like weddings, births, circumcisions, and funerals, marking life's milestones. This hearty dish has journeyed through time to become a staple for Moroccans, especially during Ramadan. Its rich ingredients help restore energy after a long day of fasting, a tradition passed down from ancestors who relied on harira as a complete meal to break their fasts under challenging conditions. Today, nutritionists advise moderation, noting that harira should be an occasional treat due to its richness. Often described as heavy and hard to digest, its nutritional value is debated. Despite this, harira, along with variations like bufertuna, chorba, asskif, tahrirt, harira bida (white), hsouwa, and belboula, continues to hold a special place in Moroccan culinary tradition, especially during Ramadan. The white harira is also appreciated for its lightness during Ramadan. /Ph. DRThe white harira is also appreciated for its lightness during Ramadan. /Ph. DR
