Bissara, Morocco's humble yet historic winter dish, has been cherished for centuries for its warmth and simplicity. Made from fava beans, it dates back to the 13th century and remains a beloved staple across the country, from home kitchens to street vendors. Bissara is one of the cornerstone dishes of Moroccan cuisine, especially during the winter season. It may not be as fancy or elaborate as other Moroccan classics such as Rfissa, Pastilla, Tajine Mqualli, or even Couscous, but Bissara is simple, comforting, and feels like a warm hug on cold days. In Marrakech, as well as in northern cities like Tetouan, Tangier, and Chefchaouen, Bissara is the favorite breakfast of early risers heading to work. A bowl of the fava bean soup, drizzled with olive oil, cumin, paprika, and a touch of harissa for those who like it fiery, fills you with warmth, flavor, and energy. Roots in a 13th-Century Cookbook Bissara has in fact been Morocco's favorite winter dish for centuries. The oldest known recipe dates back to the 13th century. This earlier version appears in what is considered the oldest surviving cookbook from Morocco and the Iberian Peninsula: Kitāb al-Ṭabikh fī al-Maghrib wa al-Andalus fī ʽAṣr al-Muwaḥḥidīn (The Book of Cooking in the Maghreb and al-Andalus in the Era of the Almohads), written by an anonymous author. Still based on the same main ingredients, dried fava beans, garlic, cumin, and olive oil, Bissara was already a beloved dish in the 13th century. It appears in the eighth chapter of the manuscript under the section «Beans, Chickpeas, and Similar Kinds». In the medieval recipe, the author refers to it as «a variety of Bayssar», indicating that even then, the dish was well known and had multiple versions. The text instructs: «Take fava beans (called al-fishar), clean and wash them several times with hot water. Once thoroughly washed, rub them with oil and place them in a pot greased with oil. Add fresh water until the beans are covered, along with a split onion, a whole head of garlic, cumin, coriander, and fennel». The mixture is cooked and stirred with a ladle until it thickens like dough. After removing the garlic and onion, it is seasoned with salt, poured into a dish, and topped with cumin and oil. «Whoever wishes may eat it with radish and onion, or with olives», concludes the 13th-century recipe. An Enduring Recipe Through the Ages The only notable difference between this version and today's is the use of fennel. In his modern adaptation, similar to the one coooked by Moroccans in this time and age, renown Moroccan Chef Moha Fedal explains that the dried fava beans should be «placed in a pot with water over low heat until a white foam appears», which is then skimmed off the surface. Garlic, olive oil, salt, and cumin are added, and the mixture is cooked gently until the beans soften. It is then mashed into a smooth, creamy texture and served with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of cumin. In other variations of Bissara, fava beans are replaced with split peas. This version is sweeter and easier to prepare, as the peas do not need to be soaked overnight. Whether served as a soup or as a thick purée, Bissara remains a beloved Moroccan winter dish, enjoyed at home or from your local Bissara vendor, steaming and fragrant in the early morning chill.
