Briwat is a staple of Ramadan iftar tables, filled with ingredients ranging from almond paste to seafood, chicken, or minced meat. In Almohad Marrakech, the sweet version was favored by the royal court and elites, while the savory minced-meat version was popular among the wider population. DR ‹ › If there is one Moroccan dish that caters to every taste and preference, it would be briwat. Remarkably versatile, it comes in countless variations: sweet or savory, dripping in honey or packed with spices, depending on one's craving. During Ramadan, it is simply indispensable, appearing on almost every table at iftar. Much like Chebakia, another sweet staple of Moroccan iftar, briwats are often prepared days, or even weeks, before the holy month. The sweet version, filled with almond paste, is deep-fried and soaked in homemade honey before being served on the dessert side of the table. But on that same table, you will likely find similar golden triangles that are not covered in honey. Their filling remains a mystery until the first bite. Some come from the sea: seafood mixed with vermicelli and spices, usually with a gentle kick of heat. Others are filled with chicken for those who prefer it over minced meat. The fillings can be as creative as cheese and olives or even eggs. What they all share is the wrapping: a thin sheet of pastry folded into small triangles. The name itself reflects that shape. In Darija, briwa refers to a small envelope, «briya» in Darija or «tabrat» in Amazigh. A royal delicacy in Almohad Marrakech Today, briwat is a beloved Ramadan staple. Yet centuries ago, it was also a delicacy served in the palace of the Almohad caliph Abu Yusuf Yaqub al-Mansur in Marrakech, who like many of us favored the sweet version. The dish appears in a 13th-century cookbook from the Maghreb and Al-Andalus dating to the Almohad era, «Kitab al tabikh fi-l-Maghrib wa-l-Andalus fi `asr al-Muwahhidin». The recipe described there closely resembles today's almond briwat. It begins with the filling: «White sugar is dissolved and mixed with rose water, then ground almonds are added until the mixture becomes like dough». The mixture is then gently stirred until thickened and removed from the fire. Once slightly cooled, spike lavender, cloves, a little ginger, and a small amount of mastic are added. Interestingly, the recipe makes no mention of the thin pastry wrapping. The sweet was simply shaped and served as a confection. «This delicacy was known in the East as sanbousak», the text notes. The version that most closely resembles modern briwat appears in another preparation described in the same cookbook, one attributed to what the author calls the «common people». Here, the pastry wrapping finally appears. The recipe describes thin sheets of dough filled with minced meat and spices, folded into triangular shapes, and fried in oil. Centuries later, briwat still delights every palate. And this Ramadan, it remains a small culinary spectacle, whether patiently handmade at home or picked up from the neighborhood bakery just before iftar. Iftar is almost here. The only question left is: which briwa will you choose?
