In Rabat and Salé, the traditions surrounding the caftan reflect a blend of local customs, Andalusian influences, and a corsair past. These traditions intersect with those of other cities and regions, notably Fez and Tetouan. These preserved customs have inspired the evolution of the garment over the centuries, right up to the present day. Illustrations: Bride from Salé (left) and caftan from Tétouan (right) - Jean Besancenot, "Costumes of Morocco" (1942) ‹ › From its roots in the 11th to 13th centuries, the caftan has been a symbol of elegance and cultural evolution in Morocco, adapting through the ages and dynasties. From the Almoravids (1056–1147) to the Almohads (1121–1269), the Marinids (1248–1465), the Saadians (1549/1554–1659), and the Alaouites (from 1666 to the present day), the caftan has been influenced by the progression of textile production and cultural exchanges between North Africa and Al-Andalus. By the 14th century, Fez had become a hub for the production of brocade, silk, and gold thread, with the caftan being worn in diverse styles across cities such as Tetouan, Marrakech, Oujda, Rabat, and Salé. In Rabat and Salé, the caftan stood out with its variety of fabrics, intricate embroidery techniques, and unique clothing combinations, heavily influenced by Andalusian designs. These influences are particularly evident in the historical version of the Salé caftan and the rarely seen bridal attire of Rabat today. Over the years, the caftan has become a cherished garment for receptions and celebrations, especially during family and religious events. Its popularity surges during Ramadan, where it plays a role in the ritual of a girl's first fast. Caftans in Morocco #1: From dynasties to woven evolutions across regions During Laylat al-Qadr, the caftan is often worn, accompanied by a henna ceremony and a traditional meal of milk with orange blossom water, eggs, and stuffed dates for young fasters. From Tetouan to Rabat and Salé: A Circulation of Influences In various cities and regions, this rite of passage has evolved to include both young girls and boys, who partake in this symbolic celebration by donning traditional attire. In Rabat, this occasion highlights the city's caftan, which has seen significant evolution since the 19th century. During this time, Rabat emerged as a center of Alaouite power, previously concentrated in Fez. Sultan Hassan I (1873–1894) sought to modernize Morocco's administration and military to maintain independence. As Rabat became the administrative capital in 1912, the royal palace was expanded in 1879, reinforcing its political status. This environment fostered the development of urban fashion, with the Rabati caftan becoming more distinctly defined by 1880. Ancient model of the Rabat caftan - early 20th century / Dar Si Saïd Museum, Marrakech Featuring floral or geometric embroidery interwoven with beads, the Rabati caftan differs from its Salé counterpart in cut, patterns, and fabric, as explained by fashion designer Fadila El Gadi. Contacted by Yabiladi, El Gadi describes the Rabat caftan as having a loose cut with wide sleeves, often made from velvet and adorned with gold braids featuring floral or geometric motifs. In contrast, the Salé caftan is characterized by fine gold thread embroidery known as qitane, creating a more delicate and balanced design. «The Rabat caftan is distinguished by a loose cut with very wide sleeves, often made of velvet and richly adorned with gold braids with floral or geometric motifs. The Salé caftan is rather characterized by fine gold thread embroideries called qitane, with a more delicate and balanced decor.» Fadila El Gadi Despite their differences, the caftan traditions in Rabat and Salé share a commitment to elegance and exquisite craftsmanship. According to El Gadi, these traditions are part of a shared cultural heritage that connects the two cities through history and cultural practices. This shared heritage is evident in ancient models that bear similarities to those from Tetouan. Rabat bridal caftan Caftans in Morocco #3: From Tetouan to Oujda, local and Andalusian influences intersect The legacy of these traditions is evident in the use of headgear and the imposing belts that accompany the garment. Among the nearly forgotten styles is the "chedda rbatia" or "touqifa," once favored by Rabat brides. This ensemble often included a velvet caftan with gold braids and wide sleeves, paired with the "izar del hrir," a large silk fabric with gold-embroidered ends. This is complemented by a long red silk veil with embroidered ends (cherbiya), a white cotton scarf (ched el biad), and a thick brocade one (abrouq), which form the base of the headdress allowing velvet bands (hiyout) to be fixed, adorned with pearls. The ensemble is accompanied by jewelry, including necklaces, bracelets, richly crafted pendants, and earrings. Tetouan and Salé: Corsair Strongholds with Similar Caftans The ancient bridal attire of Salé also follows the same principle, featuring a caftan with headgear, silk, velvet, or brocade fabrics, and tightly cross-stitched embroidery. This costume echoes the "touqifa" and Tetouan's traditions. Fadila El Gadi notes that these similarities are due to historical exchanges between the two cities, linked by maritime trade and family alliances, which facilitated the spread of fashion and craftsmanship. Salé caftan in the 19th century Over time, each city developed its own distinctive style while drawing from a shared Andalusian heritage. El Gadi, a native of Salé, immersed herself in the rich textile and embroidery traditions from a young age, which sparked her passion for fashion design. «Even though my career was later enriched by various experiences in the field of creation, this cultural heritage remained at the heart of my approach», declares the fashion designer, who launched her eponymous brand in 2007. While claiming the ancestral heritage of her hometown, Fadila El Gadi now anchors it in modern fashion, giving it international and timeless appeal. Caftans in Morocco #2: The caftan of Fez, emblem of an ancestral craftsmanship Combining hand-made embroideries with velvet, silk, and cotton, she also strives to enrich the territorial anchoring of this intergenerational know-how. «This is also what motivated me to create a school of embroidery in Salé, to preserve these traditional techniques and pass them on to new generations», she tells us. Creation: Fadila El Gadi / Ph. Christian Mamoun The year 2026 also marks the tenth anniversary of "The School of Embroidery of Salé," a non-profit association founded by Fadila El Gadi for "training young people from disadvantaged backgrounds in embroidery-related trades." Through her initiative, she works on "preserving and enhancing Moroccan cultural heritage," while contributing to improving the condition of young people in her city through "training and socio-professional integration."
