Among Morocco's cultural centers shaped by Andalusian heritage, Tetouan is renowned for its distinctive interpretation of the caftan. At the crossroads of local traditions and regional influences, it reflects the region's craftsmanship and refinement, infused with the elegance of the Nasrid courts. Over time, this style has had a broader influence, notably blending with clothing traditions in Oujda. Illustration: Jean Besancenot, "Costumes of Morocco" (1942) ‹ › At the end of the 15th century, 1492 marked the fall of Granada, bringing an end to eight centuries of Muslim rule in Al-Andalus. The completion of the Reconquista (1212–1492) triggered a major regional upheaval, reshaping the political landscape and profoundly affecting the lives of Andalusian Muslim and Jewish families who sought refuge in northern Morocco, where the caftan was already worn between the 11th and 13th centuries. This historic turning point transformed cities, landscapes, lifestyles, and traditions, particularly in Tetouan, often called «the daughter of Granada». Many of the new arrivals were artisans in various trades, especially in textiles, as well as architects, musicians, and intellectuals. Their presence revitalized the city and left a lasting neo-Moorish Andalusian imprint. Partially rebuilt by Andalusian refugees in the 16th century, Tetouan developed strong Nasrid influences. The corsair stronghold soon became a hub of diversity and exchange, acting as a historical and intercultural bridge between Spain and Morocco. Ancient model of the Tetouan caftan / DR A prosperity that shaped the Tetouan caftan and the «khanjar» motif During this same period, Tetouan consolidated its reputation as a powerful and well-defended city. Mohamed al-Mandari II relied on Sayyida al-Horra, who became the city's governor after her husband's death in 1518, to transform Tetouan into a flourishing city-state. Known for its shipbuilding industry, the city maintained a formidable corsair fleet that captured Spanish and Portuguese cargo ships, generating significant wealth and making the region one of the most prosperous in the country. This prosperity was reflected in everyday life and particularly in clothing. Traditional garments echoed the elegance of Nasrid courts, enriched by textile expertise from Fez and later influenced by styles from Oujda and the Oriental region. Among the most enduring decorative elements is the «khanjar» embroidery, a motif that has appeared for centuries on caftans worn in Tetouan, Tangier, and Oujda. Embroidered on silk, brocade, or velvet fabrics in shades of red, green, blue, or violet, the design resembles a floral interpretation of the traditional Moroccan dagger, hence its name. The motif is typically embroidered using gold and silver threads. Speaking to Yabiladi, Belgian-Moroccan stylist and designer Houda Ramdani explains that: «The Tetouan caftan has long been known for its length and wide sleeves, often worn open over a sadria and adorned with khanjar embroidery». She adds that the garment is also characterized by a long belt tied at the waist, large decorative buttons known as 'âqad', and the braided trim called sfifa. Evolving styles through the 20th century For centuries, the Tetouan caftan was worn with a range of accessories and complementary garments, including headpieces, jewelry, and decorative coverings. However, by the mid-20th century, the style evolved considerably. Floral fabrics and brighter colors became more common, and the previously loose silhouette was adjusted. The caftan was worn closed at the front, with sleeves shortened to reveal the forearms. The traditional belt was replaced with a more practical silk or gold (mdemma) belt, and headpieces largely disappeared, sometimes replaced with a thin silk scarf (hina) fastened with pins. Originally from Oujda and now based in Brussels, Houda Ramdani says she draws inspiration from these traditional styles while giving them new life. She continues to craft caftans and traditional garments using luxurious fabrics such as silk, brocade, velvet, and khrib, including its lighter variation known as «Haj Omar». «The jouhara fabric was also popular in my region of origin, as in other cities in Morocco», she says. «I recently received a piece that belonged to my mother. It features traditional pearl motifs on blue, a color widely used in northern Morocco, along with green and red velvet». Houda Ramdani The Oujda blouse and richly embellished caftans Beyond Tetouan, Ramdani notes that fashion in the Rif and the Oriental region often favors beaded caftans and highly elaborate embroidery, known as taâmar. Among the emblematic garments of the region is the «blousa oujdia», closely associated with the city of Oujda. «This blouse is known for its fluid cut, lightweight fabrics such as silk, muslin, and satin, and a yoke richly decorated with embroidery, pearls, or floral motifs», explains the stylist. For Ramdani, such garments reflect a fusion of Amazigh and Andalusian heritage, illustrating the diversity of Moroccan traditional dress. Fashion has also been a family tradition for her. «I have been passionate about fashion for seventeen years, and I launched my own collections two years ago», she says. «My sister used to make traditional clothing by hand, and my mother was a seamstress. I have wonderful memories from my childhood». Today, the two sisters collaborate between Brussels and Oujda, with Ramdani focusing on design and production while her sister specializes in hand embroidery. Houda Ramdani Through this work, she is helping revive and share Moroccan traditions beyond the country's borders. «At Moroccan weddings, especially in Brussels, we often wear what we call the 'seven dresses,' celebrating the regional diversity of Moroccan traditional outfits, including the chedda oujdia and chamalia», she explains. Ramdani highlights colors that remain timeless classics, white, off-white, blue, shades of green, and red, and says she primarily works with silk, lace, and tlija fabrics. According to her, these refined yet versatile materials allow designers to combine colors and beadwork more freely, helping the caftan evolve while remaining rooted in tradition.
