In Fez, the caftan stands as a symbol of Morocco's rich textile heritage, blending Andalusian influences with local craftsmanship to create garments of exquisite luxury and cultural significance. Fashion designer Aziza Belkhayat champions the preservation of this tradition, ensuring that the artistry of the Fez caftan continues to thrive amidst modern innovations. DR ‹ › In the early 16th century, the Andalusian-born diplomat Hassan al-Wazzan, better known as Leo Africanus, authored the seminal work Description of Africa. The book offered valuable insights into the medieval southern Mediterranean and documented local customs and traditions. Among them was the caftan of Fez, described as a «long garment open at the front, worn by both men and women». Over the centuries, Fez, Morocco's spiritual capital, has inherited a rich tradition of textile craftsmanship, particularly brocade, a highly refined fabric used in caftans. Enriched by local creativity and Andalusian influences, the garment has come to embody the savoir-faire of Moroccan artisans. Speaking to Yabiladi, fashion designer and trainer Aziza Belkhayat explains that «these traditions were shaped by the historical movements that marked our country, notably the settlement of Andalusian families in cities such as Fez, where they preserved and transmitted their textile and clothing expertise». Fondation Abderrahmane Slaoui / Ph. Alain Girodet «Khrib», «Ntaâ», and «Behja»: Symbols of the Fez Caftan This diversity has significantly influenced the evolution of weaving techniques, embroidery styles, and the fabrics used. As Belkhayat notes, «Fez has long been one of the leading cities, if not the emblematic city, of brocade». To this day, the city remains renowned for this prestigious material and its distinctive caftan, particularly the khrib and the ntaâ, two essential pieces of the bridal trousseau. The khrib remains a symbol of luxury and meticulous hand-weaving in Fez. Adorned with intricate floral and golden motifs, it has historically been associated with the Bencherif family, who settled in the city at the end of the 19th century and continued a weaving tradition dating back to the 13th century. The very name of the fabric evokes its coveted and costly nature, so expensive, it could «ruin» its buyer. «The brocade caftan is also called 'behja,' meaning joy, in reference to its vibrant colors. It is sometimes referred to as 'denya jate' (life is here), symbolizing abundance and optimism», Belkhayat explains. In Fez, brides traditionally also wore pastel tones, she adds. Illustration: Jean Besancenot, "Costumes of Morocco" (1942) Artisans have also crafted the ntaâ caftan in black and green. More broadly, «caftans from the region were made from velvet and sometimes satin, featuring fassie and rbatia floral embroidery, often outlined in gold thread on selected parts of the garment», she says. Explaining the diversity of these combinations and their contribution to the evolution of the Fez caftan, Belkhayat compares this dynamic to Moroccan culinary traditions and Andalusian music. «Initially, there were no written musical notes for Andalusian music; they were formalized later, based on the music itself. Similarly, our ancient caftan did not follow a standardized pattern until structured training integrated these elements into artisanal education». DR During the first half of the 20th century, these traditions were documented by French photographer, painter, illustrator, and ethnologist Jean Besancenot (1902–1992). His work Costumes of Morocco, based on travels between 1934 and 1939, immortalized these garments and highlighted their regional specificities. His detailed illustrations carefully reproduced the characteristics of the Fez caftan, particularly the floral motifs and gold-thread embroidery of the khrib worn by brides. Modernizing Expertise to Preserve Tradition While Fez brocade was exported as far as Turkey and exchanged among prominent families as prestigious gifts, velvet was often imported from Italy and occasionally from France. Having trained in modern fashion techniques, Aziza Belkhayat has dedicated herself to preserving and transmitting the ancestral craftsmanship of the Fez caftan. After graduating from a fashion school in Belgium in 1988, she quickly turned to teaching. In 1989, she founded the School of Fashion Design, Modeling, and Traditional Sewing (ESCOM) in Fez, initially focused on European fashion training. Gradually, she reintegrated traditional Moroccan attire into the curriculum to promote and safeguard the caftan. Ph. ESCOM «I was born in Fez, into a family where my mother sewed and my father sold thread. My uncles were master tailors of traditional clothing as early as the 1950s. I grew up surrounded by this heritage. During Ramadan, I began introducing my students to traditional clothing. It gradually took precedence and became fully integrated into the training program», she says. Determined to lead by example, Belkhayat established a workshop within the institution, where she personally designs and produces her caftans, develops collections, and organizes fashion shows. «I have preserved some of my mother's caftans and built a collection of antique pieces, which I presented last year at the Oriental Fashion Show in Paris. I also collaborated with master artisan Ouazzani, we are neighbors», she notes. Today, Belkhayat mentors apprentices and artisans alike. She has been entrusted by the wali of Fez with overseeing Jnane El Caftan in the medina, a space that brings together heirs of this rich tradition. She has become a leading advocate for safeguarding the caftan's heritage craftsmanship while adapting to evolving tastes and the relationship younger generations have with the garment. Ph. ESCOM According to the specialist, this fusion of tradition and innovation now allows for wide personalization of one of Fez's most emblematic garments. In the city, the caftan represents luxury, elegance, and refinement, a harmonious blend of tradition and modernity, and a testament to local craftsmanship open to the world.
